Jancis Robinson ratings

Côte Blanche Bourboulenc 2021 Vin de France

17 /20

Full bottle 1,159 g. 100% Bourboulenc from a single vineyard (Côte  Blanche) farmed organically and biodynamically. Hand-picked. Spontaneous fermentation. Unfined, unfiltered.
I cannot actually believe how much this wine has changed since I last tasted it in July 2023, when I described it as ‘not particularly expressive’. I wonder if Bourboulenc can be a bit like Grüner and Semillon in the way that they are sometimes very poker-faced when young and then explode into eloquence with bottle age. There is a gorgeous smoky-honey, linalool perfume hovering over the glass, and then the wine tastes of galanghal and rose water, ginger and chamomile tea, dried mango and bitter-lime peel. Sweet fennel fragrance lingers on the finish. Pretty exciting. Judging by structure and freshness, there is absolutely no hurry to drink this. (TC)

Famille Fabre, Lux Levis Cinsault 2024 Vin de France

17 /20

Full bottle 1,166 g. 100% Cinsault from old vines planted in 1964. No added sulphites. Certified organic (Ecocert).
Nothing like the much heavier version of this wine, the 2022, that I tasted in 2024, and now possibly up there in my Top Ten of chillable, crushable reds. This is yes-please-drink-me damn delicious! Cherries and raspberries with a crunchy bright slash of red apple and a zig-zag of cumin seed. Everything about this wine is in the moment. It’s exactly the kind of wine I want to drink with my kimchi jjiagae belly pork, with prawns dipped in sriracha butter, with cilbir Turkish eggs. (TC)

Famille Fabre, Château Coulon Ombres et Lumières 2024 Languedoc

16.5 /20

Full bottle 1,166 g. Certified organic (AB, Ecocert). 
I can’t find the grape varieties in this blend on the label or the internet but it’s a riot of ripe raspberries and black pepper. Juice jazz jack-in-the-box. I love the wide-arm welcome of the wine wine, the effervescent energy, the exuberance. It’s a wine that is singing the soprano of the fruit song, but rooted to its place in the long strands of ink-dust baritone and winter-soil-stones tenor of the tucked-in tannins. (TC)

Famille Fabre, Les Fabre de la Fontaine Sauvignon Blanc/Viognier 2024 IGP Pays d’Oc

15.5 /20

Full bottle 1,159 g. Screwcap. Certified organic (Ecocert).
Sauvignon plus Viognier equals the smell of very ripe, golden Cape gooseberries (physalis) with a little bit of tomato leaf. Leaning more towards Sauvignon on the palate. Fresh and full of vibe. (TC)